Quiseco is the capital of Zavala district, and – confusingly – is also known as Zavala itself. About 130km northeast of Xai-Xai on the EN1, it is noteworthy for being one of the main meal and bathroom stops on long-haul bus routes. If the bus stops for long enough, look down the escarpment eastwards to a chain of shimmering, pale-blue lagoons in the distance.